prep for op-1 doomsday

How many of you have experienced problems with the op-1? And how did you fix it? After flipping through the forum it seems like a lot of people have had issues with components failing and problems with TE support. I'm a new parent of a used op-1 with a missing keycap and I'm getting scared! Just want to make sure my newborn can live its best life, and if need be, how I can prepare for the worst.

Comments

  • Go easy on the in/out/usb jacks. Take care when plugging/unplugging and try to avoid any stress on plugged in cables.

  • My in/out/usb jacks broke last month. I bought a replacement board (just for that area). It works ok BUT its extremely tight for space in that area and so the on/off switch is a hell of a lot tighter/harder to push than previously

  • thanks guys this is the kinda discourse I'm looking for! o:)

  • I think the best prep for OP-1 dooms day is to open a new savings account and stick a tenner a month into it for the inevitable. Just buy a new one.

  • @jonesy_op said:
    My in/out/usb jacks broke last month. I bought a replacement board (just for that area). It works ok BUT its extremely tight for space in that area and so the on/off switch is a hell of a lot tighter/harder to push than previously

    Hey, did you buy your board from iFixit? I’m just trying to gauge if they’re still restocking it these days.

  • @Kites said:

    @jonesy_op said:
    My in/out/usb jacks broke last month. I bought a replacement board (just for that area). It works ok BUT its extremely tight for space in that area and so the on/off switch is a hell of a lot tighter/harder to push than previously

    Hey, did you buy your board from iFixit? I’m just trying to gauge if they’re still restocking it these days.

    Yes...a couple of months back

  • Thanks!

  • I've successfully replaced both the in/out board and the keyboard with parts and instructions on iFixit. All worked really well. A year on a key is down and another one is intermittent. They say they warranty these part for life but keyboard still out of stock. Agree with sammyjams — in/out board is delicate, be gentle.

  • I've had mine since 2016 and have used it nearly every day, always put it back in its case and in my backpack. had to get it repaired once because some sort of software malfunction and then about 8 months ago my DSP board fried out on me and I haven't been able to get repairs.

    most likely just gonna buy a new one in case of actual OP-1 doomsday.

  • Replacement socket board has broken as I accidentally clipped the headphone input to the left. The socket inside is now held together by blue tac! Once that breaks my time with the OP-1 will be done. So annoyed with the crap soldering on the replacement jack socket board

  • @jonesy_op said:
    So annoyed with the crap soldering on the replacement jack socket board

    Agreed! I got rid of my OP1 after the IO board failed. I wonder if OPZ will have this same design flaw? Would be a shame...

  • edited July 8

    Yeah my confidence has gone with the machine. I couldn’t care less about OPZ whilst owning the OB-6 desktop. I will miss the OP-1, I just can’t risk more problems. I’m thinking of selling it for around £450, how much did yours sell for with a faulty IO board?> @caloriemate said:

    @jonesy_op said:
    So annoyed with the crap soldering on the replacement jack socket board

    Agreed! I got rid of my OP1 after the IO board failed. I wonder if OPZ will have this same design flaw? Would be a shame...

  • I got a replacement board from iFixit but I ended up selling the OP1 because I didn't want to deal with it anymore. I still like TE though and will give the OPZ a chance. Waiting for more info and early reviews to figure out if I want it or not.

  • If anyone has a broken IO board that I could look at, I would love to see what repairs could be done. This would help for some future repair services. If I get it back running, then you could have a backup board in case your replacement fails too :-)

  • It usually is connector related, either a bad internal contact spring or broken solder joint. I think sometimes it may be the on/off switch.

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