Should we upgrade from 218 to 225?

This is not about the relatively small number of folk who either have a newer OP-1 which came with 220, or for those who followed unusual upgrade/beta/downgrade paths.


For the majority of us (I think) who have kept to official firmware releases and have ended up on 218…
- should we upgrade to 225?
- is it worth the effort?
- has anyone who has previously followed a direct upgrade path onto 218 performed this upgrade to 225 successfully and with no issues?

CB

No bugs in 218 on older revisions (as far as I can tell), no added features: I see no advantage in updating. Never change a running system…

with 215 225 the OP1 now sends correct song position pointer so won’t throw Volcas off, can loop backwards to start of tape without getting stuck there, and won’t crash if i move a region past the end of tape… could be I’ve had some stuff in my presets or on the tape or even in non-volatile memory that threw it, but since wiping it clean 225 has been good for me too.

same here. it’s official with no declaration—teenagers wouldn’t screw anyone.

I had trouble lately to NOT send clock while setting OP-1 as slave.

I think it’s a bug that wasn’t there on previous OS.

So my question is : does 225 send clock when OP-1 is set as slave ?

Actually… I think I’m gonna figure this by myself :smiley:

EDIT : still works the same, OP-1 sends clock when in Sync (slave) mode. A pity.

with 215 the OP1 now sends correct song position pointer so won't throw Volcas off, can loop backwards to start of tape without getting stuck there, and won't crash if i move a region past the end of tape.. could be I've had some stuff in my presets or on the tape or even in non-volatile memory that threw it, but since wiping it clean 215 has been good for me too.
@eesn - By "215" I assume you mean you upgraded straight from official version 218 to official version 225 with no problems?

CB
with 215 the OP1 now sends correct song position pointer so won't throw Volcas off, can loop backwards to start of tape without getting stuck there, and won't crash if i move a region past the end of tape.. could be I've had some stuff in my presets or on the tape or even in non-volatile memory that threw it, but since wiping it clean 215 has been good for me too.
@eesn - By "215" I assume you mean you upgraded straight from official version 218 to official version 225 with no problems?

CB

225, yes, sorry, though note I had to wipe my OP1 entirely before updating to 225. Could be patches or (buggy) contents of tape.

I upgrade to 225 from 218 the night they posted the update. So far I haven’t run into problems but right now I don’t hook up the op-1 to anything else.

Updated mine last night. Won’t power on and LEDs won’t show charging. Jumping through the usual hoops to resuscitate it. Proceed with caution.

Out of curiosity which version of the firmware did you have when you updated?

Updated mine last night. Won't power on and LEDs won't show charging. Jumping through the usual hoops to resuscitate it. Proceed with caution.
Updated mine last night. Won't power on and LEDs won't show charging. Jumping through the usual hoops to resuscitate it. Proceed with caution.

That side switch is weird. Have you noticed while the OP1 is booting up, flicking the switch doesn’t power it off immediately. I find that sometimes when the OP1 is plugged in USB, and it crashes for some reason, the switch doesn’t power it off at all, you have to physically disconnect the USB cable :expressionless: one thing I noticed on mine is that 225 fixed my 3-lights max battery indicator to a full 5.

Out of curiosity which version of the firmware did you have when you updated?
Updated mine last night. Won't power on and LEDs won't show charging. Jumping through the usual hoops to resuscitate it. Proceed with caution.
Updated from 218 to 225. It's been "charging" though with no LED feedback on an external supply for almost 24 hours. Deader than a door nail.
Updated mine last night. Won't power on and LEDs won't show charging. Jumping through the usual hoops to resuscitate it. Proceed with caution.

That side switch is weird. Have you noticed while the OP1 is booting up, flicking the switch doesn’t power it off immediately. I find that sometimes when the OP1 is plugged in USB, and it crashes for some reason, the switch doesn’t power it off at all, you have to physically disconnect the USB cable :expressionless: one thing I noticed on mine is that 225 fixed my 3-lights max battery indicator to a full 5.

Yeah I wish I could even get that far. After updating from 218 to 225, my OP-1 seems very much bricked. No LED response when charging from external supply and it’s been plugged in for 24+ hours.

Updated mine last night. Won't power on and LEDs won't show charging. Jumping through the usual hoops to resuscitate it. Proceed with caution.

That side switch is weird. Have you noticed while the OP1 is booting up, flicking the switch doesn’t power it off immediately. I find that sometimes when the OP1 is plugged in USB, and it crashes for some reason, the switch doesn’t power it off at all, you have to physically disconnect the USB cable :expressionless: one thing I noticed on mine is that 225 fixed my 3-lights max battery indicator to a full 5.

Yeah I wish I could even get that far. After updating from 218 to 225, my OP-1 seems very much bricked. No LED response when charging from external supply and it’s been plugged in for 24+ hours.

that’s what I’m saying, unplug it, turn the switch to on then off, and let it rest, then hold shift as you try to turn it on?


i updated with no trouble from 218 to 225, but my op-1 was recently in for repairs totaling something like $250 after it would not turn on or charge correctly. they put in a new board and other stuff i can’t recall. the return process was way more convoluted than it should have been. i was basically talking to like a regional person they have in the states through email and they were not exactly transparent about the whole process except how much it would cost to fix. my unit was kept in pristine condition but quite a few years old and it did not malfunction because of user error or neglect that’s for sure. i really hope they’re not bricking old devices with firmware that’s not compatible with old hardware. that would be really, really shitty. either way, i ponied up the cash cause nothing replaces it. it will always be worth repair. but all of these issues look eerily familiar and i don’t think they are anomalous. where there is smoke, there is fire.

I’m new to this forum AND the op-1 but I thought I’d share my experience. My op-1 shipped with 220 but I updated the firmware to 225 because… well, I thought that’s just what you do. Anyways I don’t really have enough experience with 220 to compare but one thing I noticed which I didn’t on 220 is that the tape seems to be really effecting the synth and/or drum mode. If I have the tape recording level low when I switch to synth or drum and play the level is also low. If I return to tape and turn it up the synth or drums go up too. Also depending on the mix settings for the selected track on tape (panning for example) the same panning can be heard when I switch to synth or drums.
As I mentioned, I had limited time on 220 but I think I would have noticed this… 225 I noticed in the first five minutes of my first jam after the update.

Thoughts?

@poolyneenee did you check the levels on the mixer section?

https://www.teenageengineering.com/guides/op-1/mixer

@bichuelo I may not properly understand the sound path but I assumed from my first week of playing on 220 that when in synth mode or drum mode the volume was influenced by the master volume so you could audition sounds on the tape without having to worry about the specific track settings for whichever track is selected in tape mode. I understand that the orange bar effects the volume when in tape mode and recording but when the tape isn’t even playing and I’m just tweaking sounds in synth or drum mode do I have to go into tape mode and make sure the recording level is up? And go into mix mode and make sure these levels are also up and the panning centered for which ever track is selected in tape mode? I didn’t notice this before… It seemed I only had to worry about tape/mix levels when I was working on recorded or to be recorded tracks in tape mode- but if I switched out to drum mode to find a hihat it wasn’t hard panned and quiet (for example) simply because the selected track in tape mode was. Does this make sense?

As far as I know (/remember off the top of my head), synth/drum volume was always set by the red knob in tape mode.

However, when playing in tape mode, the volume (and pan) is additionally affected by the mixer level of the selected tape track.

So playing in synth/drum mode is always center-panned, and will always be equal or louder than playing in tape mode. (as the volume is set by the tape mode red knob, and attenuated in tape mode by the mixer level %)

@pookyneenee: if you’re in tape mode and playing a synth or drum patch then the volume will reflect whatever is set in the mixer page e.g. if you’re playing a synth engine and you’re in tape mode and track 1 of the tape and track 1 is set to say, 30, in the mixer, the volume of what you’re playing will reflect that. That is normal behaviour. Is that what’s happening for you?


@minorscience: I doubt very much your problems are anything to do with the OS. I’d suggest following eesn’s advice and do try unplugging the USB cable when you switch your OP on.