Output jack, right audio cutting out

Okay, I know you guys have probably covered it as I believe its a common problem, but there is nothing on the boards here. As I say the right side audio is cutting out unless i jiggle it just right. SO annoying. But whats the best fix. I’ve had this issue for a while and it got worse. Tried fixing it with a pin and had some improvement but I’m not sure which connection is for the right side. Any help would be awesome guys.

Thanks

Is it confirmed that it’s the output jack and not the cable itself?

I understand the OP-1 I/O board is subject to issues with the mini jacks, but as a tech I’ve found lots of problems solved with checking cables.

A shorted cable will pop the signal in/out if jostled along the length of the cable. It will get worse when closer to the short.

Have you swapped all cables and checked?

Hey pico, yeah I’ve used a variety of cables and headphones, still the same problem bro. I think one of the metal conectors is pushed back maybe and is not connecting fully; I’m thinking it’s the ring connector. Did anyone ever try replacing the output jack? I’ve contacted teenage engineering as I just realised yesterday I’m still under warranty (didn’t know EU law gave two years warranty) and this is after I had paid for a replacement keyboard module. Doh!.

Thanks anyway bro, maybe there are brands o fcables that work better with OP1?

I don’t know about cable brands but yeah, sounds like you need a new 1/8" jack or possibly a trace repair to the I/O PCB.

I believe TE just replaces the I/O PCB, not sure if they cover it under warranty or not. Wait to hear back from them and go from there.

Good luck.

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Parts/OP-1-Connector-Board/IF237-000-1


if u need to replace the whole board ^

edit : doh just read how u are still under warranty and all that.

Cheers guys, yeah I’ll wait to hear from them, hopefully they’ll cover it. They owe me one i think!

Right solved it thanks to Albin in OP1 support though he told me I’m not under warranty. Anyway one of the solder points was loose as he suggested, so I heated the soldering iron and held it to the five solder points while pushing the input jack inwards, held it for a minute while they cooled and TADA, wonderful stereo! Oh how I missed you. Great to have a fully functioning OP1 and I just got my radio receiver from Aliexpress (less than 2 euro) and a power supply for my bass station (just over 2 euro with aliexpress) today is a good day!

Yeah I find SMT jacks to be prone to trace/solder breaks. Which is weird, as I was taught the flat surface contact should increase surface area of the solder joint and therefore increase sheer strength…

Glad to hear you got it back up and running. Have fun!

I thought I’d mention that I was having problems with the on/off switch and the charger/battery indicator all not working properly. So I did the same again, pressed a hot soldier to each of the soldier points, held the components down while they cooled and hey presto, everything now works as it should. Also my output doesn’t seem to be as dirty as before. Nifty!

Ah I replaced my connector board a while back, but my L&R out puts are not balanced, maybe I should try this later.

Thanks for this!

They may have had a bad batch of SMT soldering on some of those IO boards from the sounds of it.
Probably cold/cracked solders from production. It’s not uncommon when things are mass produced with SMT components.

They may have had a bad batch of SMT soldering on some of those IO boards from the sounds of it. Probably cold/cracked solders from production. It's not uncommon when things are mass produced with SMT components.

On that note - it may be useful to compare/add your serial number to the table in the following thread, to help tease out a pattern, if one exists.

http://operator-1.com/index.php?p=/discussion/98/when-did-you-get-your-op-1/p1

CB

Hey guys I’m having the same issue Carmobot had. How do I open up the op-1 to heat the soldering point like he did? Please let me know! Thanks!

I still have this issue. I bought a replacement shoddy in/out board from Ifixit and it lasted 3 days. I have just returned from the soldering electrics place to fix it and yes - no sound at all from headphones - only the shitty speaker. This device is just draining money atm. Are there better IO board options other than a crappy machine soldered board from ishitit?